Competition entry No. 39 – Little Red Riding Hood

Hello. My name is Diana. I decided to take part in your competition because I recently knitted a hat for my daughter. I found a picture on the Internet, bought threads and knitted a similar one. I learned to knit at school. I went to a knitting club with my sister. Now I can make all sorts of little things. I don't have the patience for big things. I have two children and am currently on maternity leave. In the summer we relax with our grandmother, so we have a little time for creativity. I get inspiration from the Internet. I hope someone likes my work. Sincerely, Zhogal Diana.

Little Red Riding Hood

Head circumference 49 cm, for a child 2-4 years old

To knit a hat you will need: hook No. 2, Iris threads (100% cotton).

Description of crochet hat

1 row– tie a chain of 7 air. loops, close into a ring.

2nd row– 3 air. lifting loops, 13 posts. with double crochet in a ring,

3rd row– 3 air. lifting loops, 1 post. with nak., 2 air. loops, 2 columns. with nak., 2 air. loops, then along scheme 1.

Finish knitting according to pattern 1. Knit another 3-5 rows with double crochets. Depending on the desired depth of the product.

Tie the cloves together scheme 2.

Knit 7 flowers:

1 row- a chain of 7 air. close the loops into a ring;

2nd row– 1 air loop for lifting, 10 single crochets in a ring,

3rd row– 1 air loop for lifting, 1 double crochet, * 3 air. lifting loops, 6 posts. double crochet for the previous stitch, 1 stitch. without a crochet*. Repeat 4 times starting from *. Look scheme 3. Sew flowers to the hat. Decorate with beads.

Tie 15 chains of 7-9 cm air loops. String the beads and braid them up to half the length of the chain. You should get 5 braids. Tie the braids to the top of the hat.

Buy a cord at the store (you can tie it) and pull it into the last row of double crochets.

At first glance it may seem that crocheting a hat is very difficult, but it is not so. Of course, knitted hats look much closer to store-bought clothes, but this is their drawback. It may be a little more difficult to crochet a warm hat, but you have more room for imagination.

Crocheting hats can be divided into several parts:

• Choosing the right model
• Selection of hook and yarn
• Taking measurements
• The process of knitting a hat

Let's start with selecting a model. Do you need a warm hat for fall/winter or a light one for spring? Do you like pom-pom hats, berets or beanies? Based on this data, we look for the model we need:

• Crochet beanie hat
• Crochet beret
• Hat with pompom

Taking measurements for crocheting a hat

1. AB – depth of the cap, measured from the forehead to the neck (from the eyebrows to the beginning of hair growth).
2. CD – cap height – measured from one ear to the other through the crown. This size needs to be divided in half.
3. Head circumference (head circumference) - measured along the line of the forehead and the protruding part of the back of the head. This is your hat size (for adults from 54-62 cm).

In accordance with the measurements taken, you can start knitting a hat. But, if you have a model at hand, or you are knitting for yourself, then the easiest way is to try it on one more time and not bother taking measurements.

Now you need to choose the right yarn. For a winter hat, we recommend using wool blend yarn or acrylic. A hat usually only needs 1-2 skeins, so don’t skimp on yarn. It is better to take imported yarn, because... it is softer and does not make your head itch. If you are allergic to wool, then buy cashmere. 100% cashmere yarn is very expensive, so choose yarn that contains at least 50% cashmere.

If high-quality yarn in your stores is very expensive, then sew a lining from fleece for a winter crocheted hat or from knitwear for an autumn hat.

For a light spring crocheted hat, you can buy yarn with a cotton composition, at least 50% cotton and 50% acrylic will be enough. Choose the thickness of the yarn depending on the size of the hook.

How to choose the right hook for the yarn when crocheting hats

Take the thread and lightly twist it in half. The thickness of the twisted yarn should be equal to the thickness of your hook. It is best to start by knitting a small sample of 10*10 cm and see how the yarn behaves and whether the selected pattern is suitable for it. Sometimes you think you've found a really nice crochet hat, but your yarn just isn't right for it.

And finally, we want to say that the easiest way to crochet a hat is according to the pattern, but sometimes it’s enough to look at several dozen models to understand what exactly you want and start knitting. We have prepared a selection of crocheted hats from our readers to make it easier for you to decide. Knit for your health!

Crochet hats. Works from our readers

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Good day everyone! I present to you my work - a set consisting of a winter hat, scarf, and mittens “Little Red Riding Hood”. The set took 4 and a half skeins of yarn “Olga” (50% acrylic, 50% wool, 100 g. 392 m.), color “Carmen”,
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Dear needlewomen, I want to show you a hat that I came up with as a gift for the New Year. It knits quite quickly because the threads are quite thick at 100g/100m, I used hook No. 7. First, tie a ribbon lace according to the volume of the head (I
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A set consisting of a beanie hat and a snood is crocheted from Alize Lana Gold Fine yarn 100g/390m in 2 threads. Yarn composition: 49% wool, 51% acrylic. In total, the set took 3 skeins. The lining of the cap is knitted from another
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Owl hat is knitted from mohair ANGORA GOLD yarn (10% mohair, 10% wool, 80% acrylic), 550 m, 100 g. Knitting in two threads, hook 3 mm. The eyes are an incomplete circle of concave and convex columns with
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I found the hat pattern on the Internet. The pattern is very simple and easy to knit, so I knitted everything together very quickly. I knitted the scarf myself, without a pattern. I wear it with pleasure. Yarn - 25% wool, 75% acrylic. Knitting pattern for a hat:
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Set for a girl or girl "Rainbow"! Autumn is just around the corner. Simple to implement, accessible even for beginners, but incredibly positive and convenient!!! The stocking cap is knitted with a double stitch (one third longer than a regular hat) according to any of the proposed patterns,
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Hat size: 54-56. Knitted to order with crochet No. 2 from wool blend yarn 340m x 100g. in two threads. Consumption about 50 g. If you add a lining to it, you can wear it in winter. I already knit and wear this pattern
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Winter knitted women's hat “Chocolate Shells” is knitted from sectionally dyed “Cashmere” yarn, 100% wool, 100g/300m. The knitting is voluminous, with twisted columns. It took more than 100 grams. Separately about twisted columns. Broken hook, two days of free time and wasted nerves
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Cute crochet hat in an hour. Elena's work. Necessary materials: hook 5 (for elastic), 5.5 (for main knitting), 100% acrylic thread 100g. DESCRIPTION OF THE HAT: We knit an elastic band: cast on 7 loops and 1 lifting loop, unfold the knitting and knit a row of dc,
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Hello! My name is Samoilova Natalya. I want to please you with my new product. The cap and stole are crocheted using the FreeForm technique. Author's work. Pekhorka threads Crossbred Brazil 500m in 100g, Pekia PERA 460m in 100g and angora meter
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Crocheted hats - polka dots - the work of Tatyana Belenkaya. Alternating rows: 2 pink, 1 brown. Increases in rows 4 and 10. There are 28 rows in total. In the last row, instead of 5 double crochets, there are 3. The headband is an elastic band knitted from embossed
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Scarf, hat and mittens "Winter-winter"

My name is Natalya Samoilova. I present to your attention my small work “Winter-Winter”. Freeform technique. The scarf is knitted. Flowers and squiggles are crocheted on the scarf. The mittens are also knitted. The elements on the front are crocheted and sewn.
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Rasta-style hats and berets are the work of Tatyana Sakadina. Tatyana writes that she simplified knitting as much as possible to make it easier to knit and count stitches. All hats are knitted to order - it turns out that the Rastafarian style is very popular now!! I'm starting berets
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"Poppy cap" crochet

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Crochet hats. Models from magazines

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Transformer idea from the design studio "CROCHET". This is a thing from the “pants turn into...” series, only in our case, but the role of “shorts” is played by a hat. Having placed in a circle several ways of wearing this hat, which even a novice knitter can knit, we
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The simple-shaped hat looks original and stylish thanks to the “elongated loops” pattern that imitates fur. Size 56. You will need: 200 g of lilac wool yarn; hook number 3. The hat is knitted with a pattern that imitates fur, the long loops of which are made along the fabric
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Crochet hats. An original white cap, in which ruffles are knitted along the fillet mesh base, creating a wave. Size 56. You will need: 150 g of fine mohair yarn (500 m x 100 g); hook No. 2. Tie the cap of the cap (total height
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Knitted hat size: 56-57. You will need: 150 g bouclé melange yarn; hook No. 5. Description of work. Cast on 3 VP (chain loops) and in the 2nd loop from the hook, tie 3 sc (single crochet), 3 half double crochets and 4
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It's time to prepare for the coming cold weather. Warm knitted mittens will always come in handy in your wardrobe. Decorate them with bright embroidery. You will need: 200 grams of pure wool yarn of medium thickness, hook No. 3, colored embroidery threads and a needle. Description of work. Cap. Size 57. Tie
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Original knitted hat from the magazine "Knit&Mode". Size: universal.

To knit a hat you will need: 150g of blue and 60g of terracotta yarn (95m*50g), hook number 3 and 2.5, multi-colored beads. Description of work: crochet number 3 with blue yarn to knit a chain of

Crochet hat Murano paints

• Hat size: head circumference 54 cm.
• You will need:
• Kid Royal Missisipi yarn (62% kid mohair, 38% polyamide, 500 m/50 g) -100 g section-dyed,

hook No. 1.5,

brooch clasp.

Attention! Knit with thread in 2 folds.

Cast on a chain of 6 chains. p., close it in a ring. Next, knit according to pattern 1 to the desired depth of the cap. Then tie the bottom edge of the cap according to pattern 2. Using patterns 3, 4 and 5, tie 3 flowers and connect them together. Sew a brooch clasp to the flower. Attach the flower to the hat.

Knitting patterns for hats:

Crochet hat video - master classes

Hat - beanie crochet video from Natalia Kotova

The hat is crocheted on a width of 50-54 cm. For knitting, 2 skeins of Lira yarn from Vita Cotton (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 50 g/150 m), a hook No. 2.5 and 1 crochet marker were required.
Crochet hat Galaxy, video from Elena Kozhukhar

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Autumn crochet hat, video from Oksana

In this video, Oksana will show you how to crochet an autumn hat for a head circumference of 48-50 cm. The yarn used was “Krokha” from the Pekhorskaya factory, 50 g = 135 m. Nako bambino, 50 g = 130 m. It took half a skein. Hook No. 3.

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Crochet hat with ears, video from Ksenia Kubyshkina

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Cap (d) 33*12 (Cheval Blanc)

Cap (d) 33*12 (Cheval Blanc)

Size 2 years

Thread NOMADE (50 g / 50 .) Souris color 2 balls.

Anis color 1 ball.

COMPOSITION: 100% cotton

MATERIALS

Hook No. 4 and 4.5.

12 p. and 14 r. knit RLS, NOMADE threads, hook No. 4.5 = 10 cm.

* ...*: always repeat from *to*

VP - air loop

PBN (SS) - half single crochet (connecting stitch)

RLS - single crochet, hook No. 4.5

Sc for the front stitch, hook No. 3.5: 1 sc for the front loop.

DECREASE: 2 sc closed together.

INC: 2 sc in same sc

EXPLANATION

Using crochet hook No. 4.5 and color Souris, make a chain of 4 VPs, close it in a circle with 1 PBN (SS).

R. 1: 6 sc in the circle, close with 1 sc (ss) in the first sc. (each row close 1 pbn (ss) in the first sc).

R. 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.

R. 3: * 1 RLS, 2 RLS in the next RLS *, repeat from * to * = 18 RLS.

R. 4: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc *, repeat from * to * = 24 sc.

From the 5th to the 9th row: continue as for the 4th row, adding 6 stitches in each row.

R. 10: * 1 sc in the next 9 sc, 2 sc in the next sc *, repeat from * to * = 66 sc.

R. 11: 22 RLS, *1 increase, 10 RLS *, repeat 2 times from * to *, 1 increase, 21 RLS = 69 RLS.

R. 12: 22 RLS, *1 increase, 11 RLS *, repeat 2 times from * to *, 1 increase, 22 RLS = 72 RLS.

R. 13 and 14: 72 RLS.

R. 15: 22 RLS, * 1 decrease, 11 RLS *, repeat 2 times from * to *, 1 decrease, 22 RLS = 69 RLS.

R. 16: 22 RLS, *1 decrease, 10 RLS *, repeat 2 times from * to *, 1 decrease, 21 RLS = 66 RLS.

R. 17: * 1 decrease, 9 RLS *, repeat 6 times from * to * = 60 RLS.

R. 18: *1 decrease, 8 RLS *, repeat 6 times from * to * = 54 RLS.

R. 19: *1 decrease, 7 RLS *, repeat 6 times from * to * = 48 RLS.

R. 20 and 21:48 RLS.

Stop work.

Put persons. side of the cap in front of you, skip the first 15 sc, make 1 sc (ss) in the next st, 1 ch, 1 sc for the front st in the same sc, 1 sc for the front st in the next 17 sc, turn, 18 sc .

R. 1: purl. side, pierce with a hook in the front stitch of each stitch only for this row: 1 VP, 4 RLS, 1 inc, 8 RLS, 1 inc, 4 RLS = 20 RLS. To turn.

R. 2: 1 VP, 1 decrease, 16 RLS, 1 decrease = 18 RLS. To turn.

R. 3: 1 VP, 1 decrease, 3 RLS, 1 increase, 6 RLS, 1 increase, 3 RLS, 1 decrease = 18 RLS. To turn.

R. 4: 1 VP, 1 decrease, 14 RLS, 1 decrease = 16 RLS. To turn.

R. 5: 1 VP, 1 decrease, 3 RLS, 1 increase, 4 RLS, 1 increase, 3 RLS, 1 decrease = 16 RLS. To turn.

R. 6: 1 VP, 1 decrease, 12 RLS, 1 decrease = 14 RLS. To turn.

Cut the thread.

OUTSIDE OF THE VISOR:

R. 1: place persons. side in front of you, 1 RLS (SS) in the first RLS of the base row, in the next stitch, 1 VP, 1 RLS in the same stitch and in the next 4 stitches. Make 2 RLS in the next stitch, 1 RLS in the next 6 p., 2 RLS in the next p., 1 RLS in the last 5 p. = 20 RLS.

R. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 as r. from 2 to 6 p.m. internal part. Make 1 p. Sc along the visor, taking 2 layers.

Using hook No. 4 and color Anis, make a chain of 4 VPs, close it into a circle with 1 PBN (SS) in the first st.

R. 1: 5 sc in circle, close 1 sc (ss) in first sc. (each row close 1 pbn (ss) in the first sc).

R. 2: 3 sc in each sc = 15 sc.

R. 3: 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, turn work, 1 sc in each sc, turn work, 3 sc together. Cut the thread.

Do the same work on the next 3 sc. And continue in this way to get 5 tops.

Sew a star on the front of the cap.

Translation made by Zheka1978

Little Red Riding Hood - knitted doll. Master class.

This doll with knitted clothes will be a wonderful friend for any girl.

Let's start with the head. We cast on the thread from which we will have two air loops, we knit 6 stitches into the first loop and start knitting in a circle, 2nd row: increase, 2 in each loop, we get 12 loops, 3rd row we make increases through one loop , we get 18, and so on in each row we must add 6 stitches evenly, we catch up to 36 stitches. Then we change the thread to the one from which the body will be and we knit without increments 36 stitches in each row, as many rows as necessary, if we want to have a girl with a long face, we need to knit a larger number of rows, and if she has a round face, then vice versa,

1.

then we begin to make decreases. First, we decrease through 4 stitches, we get 30 stitches in the row, then after 3 stitches - 24 stitches, and thus up to 18 stitches.
2.

The resulting head must be stuffed
3.

We stuff it with synthetic fluff; if it doesn’t work with your finger, then we help ourselves with a wooden stick.

4.

or with your finger, like this

then we knit several rows (an arbitrary number) without decreases, it will be more

6.

Now we’re making hangers. To prevent them from being sloping, you need to make two increments in each loop, we get 24 stitches

7.

in the next row we increase through 3 stitches, we get 30

8.

take a thread of a different color, this will be the top of the dress

9.

We knit several rows without increasing, the number of rows is arbitrary

10.

we note for ourselves that there should be a waist somewhere here, and we knit the next row only on one wall, the skirt will be tied to the second

11.

Take a thread of a different color (this is what we will have for the skirt and panties)
12.

knit a certain number of rows, stuff

13.

14.

we knit 15 stitches, now we will have legs

15.

Now we have 15 pets in each circle. We knit the legs-pants. Cut the thread, leaving a long end, as needed.

Our legs will be sewn on today, I decided so.

To do this, take a thread of the color that we will have shoes. We knit a chain of 2 stitches, in the first 6 stitches, then in the second round we make increases in each loop, we get 12 stitches

16.

knit three rows up and put a juniper bead inside for scent

17.

with the thread that is for the body, we knit several rows, stuff

18.

sew to the body with a knitted seam

It turned out ugly, but we'll fix it later

We do the same with the second leg. The result was a raskoryaka

21.

Now our girl has such an ugly hole, we sew it up with green thread, it’s not for nothing that we left a long end

22.

it turned out like this

23.

and no longer a raskoryak

24.

Now we have to knit her skirt. We cling to the remaining wall that we prepared at the waist

25.

here you need to make a sc, and in the next rows make even increases, first through two loops, in subsequent rows through three, four, etc.

26.

27.

then at a certain moment we decided that that’s enough, and we knit without increments

28.

We finished the skirt, now we need to make a frill

29.

it turned out something like this

30.

what about our legs? something needs to be fixed. Let's make her some frills there too

31.

33.

Now the apron

We knit a chain of VP absolutely by eye and make rows on them with ticks from dc

Here my camera is glitched and there is no photo of the apron at work

The apron was sewn to the skirt

knitted Little Red Riding Hood

Materials: yarn in red, white, black, green, brown, mustard, pink. Yellow threads for hair (thick cotton). Filling (synthetic fluff).

The toy is knitted with knitting needles No. 3 and crocheted 2.5.

Dimensions: doll standing height 33 cm, sitting height 24 cm. Arm length 9 cm. Head circumference 31 cm.

Master Class:

1. Legend:

Decrease with knitting needles - knit 2 stitches together

Crochet decrease - knit 2 loops together sc

Increase with knitting needles - knit two from one loop, knitting it behind the front and back walls

Crochet increase - from 1 sc (from 1 loop) knit 2 sc

*…* - rapport

According to the pattern - knit over knits, purl over knits.

VP - air loop

RLS - single crochet

Patterns:

Stockinette stitch - 1st row: knit, 2nd row: purl

Garter stitch - all rows - knit stitch

Rib 1x1 - 1st row: *knit 1, purl 1*. 2nd row: according to the picture

“Putanka” - 1st row: *Knit 1, Purl 1. 2nd row: knit a purl over the knit stitch, knit over the purl stitch.

“Rib” - 1st row: *Knit 1, slip 1 stitch without knitting*. 2nd row: purl.

2. Body knitted in the following sequence: right foot and right leg, pelvis (right half), separately left foot and left leg, pelvis (left half), torso (joint of right and left legs), head. Legs - body - head - this is 1 piece. Hands, ears and nose are knitted separately.

Knitting needles No. 3.

Right foot and right leg: Cast on 17 stitches.

Row 11 (black): knit 4, knit 8 decreases, knit 14 = (26)
Row 12 (black): purl 14, purl 4 decreases, purl 4 = (22)
13-14 row (white yarn): “ribbed”
15 - 32 row (mustard yarn): “ribbed”
33 - 46 row (mustard): stockinette stitch

Basin (right half): white yarn

1st row: knit
2nd row: purl the first 11 stitches, turn the knitting back
Row 3: knit 11
4th row: purl 9 stitches and turn knitting
Row 5: knit 9
Row 6: purl 7 stitches and turn the knitting
Row 7: knit 7
Row 8: purl 5 stitches and turn knitting
Row 9: knit 5
Row 10: purl 3 stitches and turn knitting
Row 11: knit 3
Row 12: purl 5 and turn knitting
Row 13: knit 5
Row 14: purl 7 and turn knitting
Row 15: knit 7
Row 16: purl 9 and turn knitting
Row 17: knit 9
Row 18: purl 11 and turn knitting
Row 19: knit 11
Row 20: Purl 11 and turn knitting.

Place the stitches on the stitch holder.

Left foot and left leg: cast on 17 loops.

Row 1 (brown yarn): knit, 17 increases = (34)
Row 2 (brown): purl
Rows 3 - 10 (black yarn): stockinette stitch
Row 11 (black): knit 14, knit 8 decreases, knit 4
Row 12 (black): purl 4, purl 4 decreases, purl 14
13 - 14 row (white yarn): “ribbed”
15 - 32 row (brown yarn): “ribbed”
Rows 33 - 46 (brown): stockinette stitch

Basin (left half): white yarn

1st row: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: Knit 11 and turn knitting
4th row: purl 9 and turn knitting

Body (white yarn), knitted in stockinette stitch:

Row 1 (joining right and left legs): knit 22 stitches on the left leg, then 22 stitches on the right leg = (44)

(The seam will be located on the doll's back).

2nd row: 20 loops, 4 increases, 20 loops = (48)
3rd row: 19 loops, 1 increase, 8 loops, 1 increase, 19 loops = (50)
Row 4 and all even rows: according to the picture
5th row: 19 loops, 1 increase, 10 loops, 1 increase, 19 loops = (52)
7th row: 19 loops, 1 increase, 12 loops, 1 increase, 19 loops = (54)

9 - 26 row: according to the picture

Row 27: 19 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, pass 1 loop over it without knitting, 12 loops, 1 decrease, 19 loops = (52)

Row 29 (beginning of the shoulder bevel): 9 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 5 loops, remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it without knitting, 10 loops, 1 decrease, 5 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 9 loops = (46)

31 row: 8 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 4 loops, remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it without tying, 8 loops, 1 decrease, 4 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 8 loops = (40)

33rd row: 7 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 4 loops, * remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it without knitting * - 2 times, 2 decreases, 4 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 7 loops = (32)

Row 35: 6 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 10 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 6 loops = (28)

Row 37: 5 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 8 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 5 loops = (24)

Head (pink yarn), stockinette stitch:

1 - 3 row: according to the picture = (24)

4th row: 24 increases = (48)

5th row: 14 loops, 1 increase, 3 loops, 1 increase, 10 loops, 1 increase, 3 loops, 1 increase, 14 loops = (52)

From the 6th row to the 36th, each even row: according to the drawing.

7th row: 16 loops, 1 increase, 4 loops, 2 increases, 6 loops, 2 increases, 4 loops, 1 increase, 16 loops = (58)

9 row: 18 loops, 1 increase, 5 loops, 1 increase, 1 loop, 1 increase, 4 loops, 1 increase, 1 loop, 1 increase, 5 loops, 1 increase, 18 loops = (64)

11th row: 20 loops, 1 increase, 6 loops, *1 increase, 2 loops* - 3 times, 1 increase, 6 loops, 1 increase, 20 loops = (70)

Row 13: 22 loops, 1 increase, 7 loops, 1 increase, 3 loops, 2 increases, 3 loops, 1 increase, 7 loops, 1 increase, 22 loops = (76)

Row 15: 24 loops, *1 increase, 8 loops* - 3 times, 1 increase, 24 loops = (80)

Row 17: 26 loops, 1 decrease, 8 loops, 2 decreases, *slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, pass 1 loop over it unknitted* - 2 times, 8 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, Pass 1 loop over it undone, 26 loops = (74)

Row 19: 24 loops, 1 decrease, 7 loops, 1 decrease, 4 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, pass 1 loop over it without knitting, 7 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, 1 loop pass over it unknitted, 24 loops = (70)

21 row: 23 loops, *1 decrease, 2 loops * - 2 times, 1 decrease, 4 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, pass 1 loop over it without knitting, 2 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, the next knit a loop, pass 1 loop through it unknitted, 2 loops, remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it unknitted, 23 loops = (64)

23 row: 22 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 2 decreases, 6 loops, * remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it without knitting * - 2 times, 1 loop, remove 1 loop without knitting, the next knit a loop, pass 1 loop through it unknitted, 22 loops = (58)

25 row: 20 loops, 1 decrease, 1 loop, 1 decrease, 8 loops, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, pass 1 loop over it without knitting, 1 loop, slip 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, 1 loop pass over it unknitted, 20 loops = (54)

27 row: 18 loops, 2 decreases, 10 loops, * remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it without knitting * - 2 times, 18 loops = (50)

Row 29: 15 loops, 2 decreases, 12 loops, * remove 1 loop without knitting, knit the next loop, throw 1 loop over it without knitting * - 2 times, 15 loops = (46)

31 row: 1 loop, *1 decrease, 3 loops*

Row 33: 1 loop, *1 decrease, 2 loops*

Row 35: 1 loop, *1 decrease, 1 loop*

Row 37: 1 loop, decrease to the end of the row

Row 38: decrease to the end of the row.

In the book by N. Botton there is practical advice: “Turn while knitting a row (for example, when making the pelvis and legs of a doll): do not knit the first loop. This way you will avoid the appearance of holes.”

Final detail

I tried to follow this advice, but, unfortunately, I still ended up with one hole. However, in the end (on the finished work) it does not catch the eye.

3. "Hands"(2 parts) : facial surface.

Cast on 4 loops.

1 row (white yarn): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (6)

Row 2: (white): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (8)

Row 3 (white): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (10)

Row 4 (white): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (12)

Row 5 (white): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (14)

Row 6 (white): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (16)

Row 7 (white): 1 increase at the beginning of the row, 1 increase at the end of the row = (18)

8 - 17 row (white): according to the picture

18 - 27 row (pink): according to the picture

28 - 32 row (white): according to the picture

Row 33 (fingers): knit 6, slip 6 stitches without knitting onto an auxiliary needle, knit 6

Row 34: according to the drawing (do not knit the delayed loops)

Row 35: *1 decrease, 2 loops*

Row 36: 1 loop, *1 decrease, 2 loops*

Row 37: 1 stitch, decrease until the end of the row.

Finger (stitches set aside): knit in circular rows (I knit on toe knitting needles):

1 - 2 circular rows: facial

Round 3: decreases.

4. Assembling the doll. We sew the main part, leaving holes on the back (for stuffing) and at the bottom of the foot (for centering the legs). We stuff the doll with synthetic fluff and sew up the holes.

In N. Botton’s book, it is recommended to sew the part from the wrong side and then turn it inside out. In my Soviet-pioneer childhood, I did a summer internship at a soft toy factory in the city of Gomel. We worked in the assembly shop, sat on the conveyor belt, sewed heads on bear cubs and dogs. There, the craftsmen taught us how to sew a hidden seam along the front side of the product, so I sew everything along the front side. Do as you feel comfortable.

When sewing the legs together, you will notice that the doll’s feet turn out to the sides, and the most gathered part of the foot is located not in the center, but on the side. The figure shows the dotted line where the bottom of the foot is joined (stitched). So the feet will “unfold” parallel to each other.

We sew the handles, stuff them with padding, and connect the body with the handles.

The doll is almost ready!

Volume is created by decreases and increases.

The bottom of the foot is stitched last (after centering).

5. We design the head. We make the doll's hair: embroider the bangs (it can also be made “sticking out”), cut the “hairs” to the required length (so that you can braid them).

First, we distribute the hairs on the head using pins, then we sew the hair with regular bobbin thread (hair by hair).

It is better to sew the hair symmetrically in several places. The final touch is to braid the hair.

6. We knit clothes.

Dress:

Cast on 150 stitches. Knitting needles No. 2.5.
Rows 1 - 4 (red yarn): garter stitch
5 - 8 row (red yarn), knitting needles No. 3: stockinette stitch
9 - 10 row: stockinette stitch: 2 loops with red yarn, 2 loops with black yarn
11 - 12 row: alternate colors
Rows 13 - 14: alternate colors
Rows 15 - 45 (red yarn): stockinette stitch
Row 46: *Knit 3 stitches together* = (50)
Row 47 (black yarn), knitting needles No. 2.5: knitting needles
48 - 49 row: elastic band 1x1
Row 50: according to pattern: 1 loop, *1 decrease, 1 yarn over*, 1 loop = (50)
51 - 52 row: according to the picture
53 - 61 rows, knitting needles No. 3: “tangle” (“tangle” until the end of knitting the dress)
62 row (armholes): 12 loops, bind off 3 loops, 5 loops, bind off 10 loops, 5 loops, bind off 3 loops, 12 loops

Back (left half):

The right half is knitted similarly.

Front straps:

Apron: cast on 30 stitches. Knitting needles No. 3. Green yarn.

Rows 1 - 4: garter stitch

Row 5: knit

Row 6: knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 7: knit

Row 8: knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 9: knit

Row 10: knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 11: knit 7 (green), knit 1 (red yarn), knit 22 (green)

Row 12: knit 3, purl 18, purl 3 (red), knit 3

Row 13: knit 5, knit 5 (red), knit 20

Row 14: knit 3, purl 16, purl 3 (red), purl 1 (green), purl 3 (red), purl 1 (green), knit 3

Row 15: knit 5, knit 2 (red), knit 1 (green), knit 2 (red), knit 20 (green)

Row 16 (all green): knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 17: knit

Row 18: knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 19: knit

Row 20: knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 21: knit

Row 22: knit 3, purl 24, knit 3

Row 23: knit

24 - 25 row: elastic band 1x1

Row 26: purl 3, *decrease 1, yo 1*, purl 3

Row 27: according to the pattern (knit yarn overs)

Row 28: according to the picture

29 - 30 row: elastic band 1x1

A cord is pulled through the holes formed by the yarn overs.

Cap. Red yarn. Knitting starts from the back of the bottom. Cast on 13 loops.

1st row: purl

2nd row: 1 knit, *1 knit, 1 increase * = (19)

3rd row: 19 increases with a “tangle” = (38)

4 - 10 row: “confusion”

Row 11: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row, in the middle “confusion” = (36)

12 - 16 row: “confusion”

Row 17: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row, in the middle “confusion” = (34)

18 - 22 row: “confusion”

Row 23: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row, in the middle “confusion” = (32)

24 - 28 row: “confusion”

Row 29: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row, in the middle “confusion” = (30)

30 - 34 row: “confusion”

Row 35: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row, in the middle “confusion” = (28)

36 - 38 row: “confusion”

Row 39: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row, in the middle “confusion” = (26)

Row 40: “confusion”

41 row: 1 decrease at the beginning of the row, then “confusion” = (25)

Row 42: 1 decrease at the beginning of the row, then “confusion” = (24)

Row 43: 1 decrease at the beginning of the row, then “confusion” = (23)

Row 44: 1 decrease at the beginning of the row, then “confusion” = (22)

Row 45: 1 decrease at the beginning of the row, then “confusion” = (21)

Row 46: 1 decrease at the beginning of the row, then “confusion” = (20)

Row 47: *3 loops together* - 6 times, 1 decrease, bind off the loops.

Hat brim: crochet the base on three sides = 62 loops (sc)

Row 1: *1sc, skip 1 stitch from previous row* (three sides)

2 - 3 row: RLS (three sides)

Rows 4 - 5: sc, including stitches at the back of the hat

6th row: *1 increase, 2 sc*

7 - 10 row: RLS

11th row: *1 RLS, 3 VP, 1 RLS*

If you don't want the brim of your hat to be so wavy, don't knit the last row.

7. We design the face.

Nose: cast on 3 loops (knitting needles), pink yarn. Facial surface.

Rows 1 - 2: 1 increase at the beginning and 1 increase at the end of the row

3 - 6 row: according to the picture

Rows 7 - 8: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row

Close the loops.

Fill the nose with synthetic fluff or a ball of cotton wool, tie it with thread around the circumference, and sew it to the head.

Embroider eyes, mouth, freckles, eyebrows.

Ears(2 parts): hook 2.5, pink yarn.

Knit a chain of 7 VPs.

1st row: RLS

2 - 3 row: 1 decrease at the beginning and 1 decrease at the end of the row

Complete the knitting by closing the piece into a ring.

Sew the ears to the head.

There are a few touches left to the costume.

Embroider crosses (a strip of jacquard knitting) on ​​the dress with white thread.

Lace Collar: hook 2.5, white yarn. Knit a chain of 28 VPs.

1st row: RLS

2nd row: *1 increase, 2 sc*

3rd row: RLS

4th row: *1 RLS, 2 VP, skip 1 loop of the previous row, 1 RLS*

Wrap the collar around the neck and sew at the back.

Tie two cherries (like a nose) with red yarn and sew them to a lace made of green yarn. Tie this “tie” under your collar. Embroider lacing in the center of the bodice with red yarn, and red “buttons” on the body.

Make a long twisted cord from black yarn, pass it through the holes of the dress, taking the apron at the same time.

It is easier to put on a dress through your legs.

Basket: hook 2.5, yarn brown or mustard color.

Close the chain of 5 VPs into a ring. We knit in a circle.

1st row: 5 increases = (10)

2nd row: *1 increase, 1 sc* - 5 times = (15)

3rd row: *1 increase, 2 sc* - 5 times = (20)

4th row: *1 increase, 3 sc* - 5 times = (25)

Row 5: *1 increase, 4 sc* - 5 times = (30)

Rows 6 - 8: RLS

Row 9: “crawly step” (sc in reverse direction)

From the last loop we knit a chain of 12 VPs (this is a handle), connect the chain to the opposite side of the basket with a single crochet, and knit back the sc along the chain.

“Pies”: 2.5 hook, yellow or light brown yarn.

We knit a chain of 8 VP.

1st - 3rd row: RLS, half double crochet, 3 double crochets, half double crochets, RLS

4th row (circular): RLS

We put the filling inside (synthetic fluff or cotton wool), connect the edges of the “pie” and knit a row of sc, capturing both edges.

Pies can be made multi-colored.

Little Red Riding Hood is ready!