How to sew legs for a rag doll. Primitive textile doll: light, funny, pleasant. MK interior doll from A to Z

This is the text of a beginner, a neophyte, an incompetent, an experimenter at the stage of “Come on, let’s see how they make huts here!” Experienced craftsmen can step away from the screen and plunge into the world of creativity, where difficult mistakes and paradoxes reign.

But if you only dream of your first textile doll, this is the place for you. I have something to say! I have, I have!

By sewing just three dolls with round heads, you can find answers to questions that torment your brain and restrain your impulses.

1) How does it cost? No, really, how is it worth?

2) Where can I get patterns? Probably, these patterns were compiled by higher mathematicians: well, so that it stands, the center of gravity, the proportionality of the parts, this, that...

3) What are they made of? And what do you need - a nosebleed - to buy?

4) Are there people on the Internet selling kits for sewing such dolls for 1600 - 1800 rubles? Seriously? Is everything that serious there?

6) And if I don’t plan to start an intercontinental business selling these dolls, can I join in and make a doll from what I have in the house? I need a doll for myself. On the shelf.

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- COSTS!

If you pull her legs through the buttons, she will stand up! And even without boots!

You just need a strong thread, of course.

I have “Madeira” No. 30 - you can’t tear it apart with Ilya Muromets!

And she looks so cute in boots! You can even move it.

So, this secret is out.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to stuff your legs until the hardness of raw smoked sausage. Still worth it!

- YOU CAN DRAW THE PATTERN YOURSELF.

If the first dolls are already on their feet, then it is clear that magazine patterns and patterns from masters are not necessary. I took it and drew it. Another plus is that you can program your favorite doll size.

Kind of a sketch. The doll is just over 20 cm.

Ball head. Homemade. Inside there is padding polyester.

If the radius is selected, then through the two-pi-er formula you can calculate the length and width of the petal.

There are also ready-made foam balls. Whoever likes it.

On one side the petals are slightly cut off because a “hole” is needed for the neck.

Simple stuffing tools.

Technological holes for stuffing are sewn with a hidden seam.

About the legs, or more precisely, the feet.

Then you need to connect the top and bottom and lay a horizontal line.

A line of supposedly flat fingers will appear.

Well, this is how the corners of rectangular cosmetic bags are decorated. Well, you understand.

- YOU CAN SEW A DOLL AND GET OUT CHEAP.

There is cheap doll knitwear and there is expensive doll knitwear. The difference in price is four to five times.

From a quarter (that is, a quarter of a square meter) of cheap knitwear for 120 rubles. it turns out two dolls. Well, good.

Cheap doll knitwear is an ordinary stocking weave of threads (on the face - front, on the back - purl). Can be replaced. How? Something, that is, underwear knitwear. Sorry.

What should I use on clothes? Yes, everything that is.

An old tie, curtain scraps and scraps of knitwear.

What about the hair? What we managed to get or make was hair.

Doll tresses are, of course, beautiful and chic. Will seek.

In the meantime, you can use what you have: a semi-finished product called “doll hair”, wool for felting, yarn, satin ribbon, fur, simple threads...

- BUT YOU NEED TO PURCHASE SOMETHINGNECESSARILY (or SEARCH FOR HOMES). NO EXIT.

1) Puppet or gypsy needle (that is, long).

If you have a Soviet long steel needle, dance. Chinese needles are imitation, they bend immediately. Of course, you can sew, but you have to adapt.

2) Filler.

There are many of them: padding polyester, holofiber, “swan’s down”, “balls”...

Those who do patchwork always have scraps of padding polyester. If there are no scraps, you can lose 200-300 rubles and buy a bag of something similar.

3) If you intend to make shoes, then you need glue. “Crystal Moment”, “Crystal Gel” or hot silicone in a gun will do. They harden quickly and do not spread. Or you can buy ready-made shoes. Also a way out. And beautiful.

If you sew and knit (at least a little), then you have everything else: threads, needles, sewing machines, scraps, buttons, braid, scraps of leather or leatherette, beads, yarn, lace, etc.

- TECHNOLOGY IS AT DESIRE. THERE ARE NO STRONG RULES.

In any case, you need to connect the body, arms and legs. How you do it is a matter of taste and experience.

The body can be connected to the head by piercing the head all the way through and pulled together (well, like the legs). Or you can insert a stick. Or you can not do any of this, but just sew it well.

It would be nice to walk along the neck.

You can immediately cover the head with knitwear, or you can use a head cover. In this case, a cover was required because padding polyester was placed on the ball-head.

This case is flat. The pattern resembles a bowl or glass: chest, narrowing of the neck, wide head.

If you sew according to a ready-made pattern, there is no problem. And if you have come up with your own doll, then it’s not difficult to draw a drawing for the case.

The cover needs to be tightened. We pull and pull so that there are no wrinkles on the “face”.
Everything else will be covered. The top of the doll's head will look absolutely terrifying:
the seams are the size of ropes and not at all neat.

And there are patterns where the head and body are generally one piece.

The legs can be attached through buttons, and then they will move. Or you can sew them tightly.

Hair can be sewn, glued, felted. It depends on what you have as hair.

The eyes can be glued on (special doll eyes, beads, etc.) or drawn.

The hands can be attached to the doll’s naked body, or later on the dress...

Etc., etc. At every stage of work there is a wide choice and variations-variations-variations!

All addictions, habits, favorite technologies will appear during work. You need to squeeze materials, stick a needle... That’s also my rule! Yes, as everywhere and always!

Variable steps: you can do this, or you can not do that.

Sew-on hair.

You can apply padding polyester. Well, so that the seams are not so noticeable.

And you don’t have to lie down...

And you don’t have to bother.

For example, trousers can be sewn or glued on the belly.

It won't be visible anyway!

A three-year-old child will get away with it in an hour...

Clothing on such dolls is a laugh and a sin! It’s enough to remember how, as a child, you sewed on baby dolls. This skill is quite enough.

The front and back of the pants are the same.

The bodice on the dress is an arc. You can simply wrap the doll in paper (tracing paper, napkin, masking tape) and cut out an arc.

Sleeve - pipe with variations...

No, there are masters with a Michelangelo complex: everything must be perfect! They sew removable clothes and process the cuts. But, honestly, you can do without processing the cuts, and every time you have a choice of “needle or glue?”, choose glue...

Care in making clothes and details is everyone's choice.

What do you enjoy? Stop there.

What about shoes? But here you need a pattern and skill. This is a separate story. But, thank God, there are a lot of MK and patterns on the Internet. Well, you will get covered in glue when making your first boots. Then it will be better.

And even when making doll shoes, there is a brilliant excuse: the doll cannot walk in these shoes! It fits - it's already good! No glue visible - great! It turned out cute and beautiful - we can safely classify the shoes and the entire doll as masterpieces of homemade art.

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FIRST.

TOMOCHKA.

Each master has his own techniques, patterns and peculiarities of sewing an interior doll. In this master class we will try to explain in great detail how this is usually done. The material is suitable even for beginners without experience. So let's get started.

MK interior doll from A to Z

What we need:

Sewing machine.
Knitwear for the body, non-woven fabric, cotton, knitwear for clothing.
Boots for a doll, a hat for a doll, hair tresses.
White and beige threads, needles.
Filling: padding polyester and padding polyester. You can only use padding polyester if you can’t find padding polyester.
Large (long) needle for sewing arms and legs.
The glue is transparent.
Invisible needles or safety pins.
Scissors.

So, the first and most important thing is the pattern. Print on A4 and cut out.

To sew the body you will need knitwear. You can purchase special doll knitwear that has almost no stretch. Most often it is found under the name “White Angel”. You can get simple knitwear from a fabric store. To prevent it from stretching too much, glue it with non-woven fabric. We glue the fabric from the inside out, except for the place where the head will be. We fold and pin facing each other, outline the pattern, and stitch. The parts are not completely stitched together. There are still places for turning and a place where the ball for the head is inserted.

We cut out the body parts using zigzag scissors. If you don’t have these, then cut them out using regular ones and be sure to make small notches in the folds, for example on the neck. We just take this cut edge and carefully, not reaching the seam a couple of millimeters, trim it.

After we have stitched all the details, we need to finalize the legs. We take the leg, fold it in the area of the foot, seam to seam and draw a rounded line.

Sew along this line. Cut it out. This is what we should get.

We turn the parts inside out using a wooden stick.

Let's get to the head. We will need a foam ball 8 cm in diameter. We cut out a circle from padding polyester, such that it completely covers the ball when wrapped.

We wrap the ball and insert it into the head through the space that is not sewn up at the top.

If you don’t want to make a nose for your doll, then you can skip the next step. For the spout we will need a safety pin with a bead at the end, a piece of padding polyester, thread and glue. So, let's take a pin. Apply glue to the tip of the plastic bead. Wrap it with a strip of padding polyester. Then we fold this roll on the bead in half. We tie a thread around the base of this ball.

The necessary strip of padding polyester.

A roll wrapped around a bobby pin.

We folded this roll in half and wrapped it with thread at the base.

We mark on the face with an invisible pencil where our nose will be.

Carefully move the fabric aside and, at the place where the needle enters the ball, insert our nose and remove the invisible one.

Sew up the head.

Now the most crucial and difficult moment is the neck. For the neck you will need a wooden stick. We cut Chinese chopsticks and sharpen the end. You can use wooden skewers, but they are more brittle. You will also need a strip of padding polyester and glue.

We cut out a strip of padding polyester in a width equal to the length of the stick to the point, and the length is such that when rolled into a roll it will cover the neck approximately. Lubricate the stick with glue and, starting from the end, roll the padding polyester into a roll around the stick - like a carpet.

Carefully insert this roller into the body through the lower unsewn hole and prick the ball in the head onto the tip of the stick. For a beginner, it can be difficult to get a beautiful neck right away. With experience it gets better and better.

We stuff the body with synthetic fluff. Carefully, in small pieces. Help yourself with a wooden stick. If you don’t have padding polyester, then you can use padding polyester, tearing and fluffing it into small pieces. Stuff tightly.

First we stuff the neck with a stick. We try to level everything so that there are no bumps.

After the neck is smooth and neat, you can stuff the body without a stick, using your hands. A very important point! The padding should be very dense and tight. This is necessary so that our doll can stand later. This applies to the torso, arms, and legs. Take your time, use small pieces. Large pieces give the so-called cellulite - an uneven surface of the doll.

Sew up the bottom.

We stuff our arms and legs using the same principle. There is no way to do this without a stick. Advice: first put boots on your feet, and then stuff them. This can again be done using a stick. We insert it into the leg and put it into the shoe. And then we stuff it. This will help the foot not to deform during padding and take the shape of the shoe. Sew up the holes in the arms and legs.

Let's start with clothes. We cut out pantaloons. Take the fabric. Place them facing each other. We draw our pattern on the fabric. Hem the top and bottom. And then we sew the upper side seams.

We unfold and sew the bottom seams so that we get panties.

Turn it inside out and put it on the legs through the top.

We insert the torso between the legs. We fix it with safety pins, or better, if available, with long needles. And we sew it by button fastening the legs to the body.

That is, you insert a needle into one leg and stitch it through the torso to the other leg. At the same time, you sew through the buttons on each side.

We put on our pants. We gather them at the back and sew them to the body. If they turn out to be too wide for the leg, then they can be gathered with a thread and sewn to the legs.

We sew a dress. It will consist of a separate top, skirt and sleeves. Sew the top part. To do this, we need to measure the circumference of the torso at the waist and the height of this upper part.

The girth is 21 cm and the height is 7.5 cm. For the allowance we add 0.5 cm in width and 2 cm in height.

So, we need to cut out a rectangle 21.5x9.5 cm. And hem it on a machine on both sides along the width.

Then we make grooves on both sides. To do this, we apply our cut to the body, wrap it and mark the fold of the fabric for ourselves. You can first draw a line and sweep it by hand. We sew one side. We do not sew it all the way, since at the bottom we have the length that we need. And it doesn't need to be reduced.

We apply it again to the body and in the same way mark the excess on the second side, which needs to be removed into the dart. We stitch it. We apply it to the body, secure it with pins and carefully sew the two halves at the back. This is what the top looks like:

We sew a skirt. Everything is simple here. From the waist, measure the length of the skirt you need. Please note that if the skirt is full, it will look shorter. Cut out a rectangle equal in width to the length of your skirt + 2 cm for allowances, and as long as you want. The more, the more magnificent. For this doll, I made the length 45 cm. If one piece of fabric is missing, then you can sew two. So, we cut it out, hemmed the edges, and then sewed it into one circle. They gathered it along the length with thread and tightened it at the waist. Then they sewed it directly to the body.

This is a petticoat. The skirt is pleated at the top. The technology is the same. Sewn on by hand.

Down you can wear a tulle skirt for fullness. You can glue or sew braid or lace onto the belt to hide the seam.

The jacket is made of jersey, but you can use either cotton or denim. In this example, jersey and cotton are used as the lining fabric. We cut the fabric facing each other. Let's draw a pattern. We don’t sew all the way through. We turn it inside out through the hole and sew it up by hand.

We attach our jacket to the doll and secure it with pins. We sew it in the center. Decorate with a button or something else. You don’t have to sew it, then it won’t be fastened on the doll.

Sew the bottom on a small rectangular piece of knitwear. We chop off the face and draw the sleeves. Place the handles on the fabric and mark where the sleeve should go.

We sew it, turn it inside out and put it on our hands.

We sew the arms in the same way as the legs, using button fastening.

The last stage is the hair. Hair can be made from artificial tresses or from natural sheep curls. You can also use yarn or wool for felting. How to make hair from tresses?

We will need tresses, transparent glue, or a needle and thread, safety pins, and a comb.

There are two options. The first is to glue the tresses with glue, the second is to sew with threads. For beginners, the second option is easier. It is easier. Here's how to glue the tresses.

Draw a line around the head with a simple pencil. Squeeze out a small layer of glue along this line.

Apply the base of the tresses to this layer and secure with pins. The pins are only needed for a few seconds for the glue to set. When we glue the second row, we already take out the pins from the first.

In the same way, the third row, etc. Until the tress runs out.

You can sew tresses to your head in the same way using threads in a spiral. It will take a little longer, but your hands will be clean from glue :) Or buy a wig, it fits on your head and is easily sewn along the edge.

We draw the eyes with acrylic paint and blush the cheeks with regular blush or pastels.

We put on a hat, decorate it to your taste (a bear, or a handbag, or anything else), and voila! The doll is ready :)

Today I will tell you and show you how to sew an interior doll. I know that there are a lot of master classes on such dolls. But each master has his own techniques and his own tailoring features.
In this master class, I tried to explain in great detail how I do this. I think that this material is suitable even for beginners without experience. So let's get started.

What we need:
Sewing machine.
Knitwear for the body, non-woven fabric, cotton, knitwear for clothing.
Boots for a doll, a hat for a doll, hair tresses.
White and beige threads, needles.
Filling: padding polyester and padding polyester. You can only use padding polyester if you can’t find padding polyester.
Large (long) needle for sewing arms and legs.
The glue is transparent.
Invisible needles or safety pins.
Scissors.
So, the first and most important thing is the pattern.
Here she is.

To sew the body you will need knitwear. You can buy knitwear that has almost no stretch. Most often it is found under the name “White Angel”. For my work I use the simplest knitwear from a fabric store. To prevent it from stretching too much, I glue it with non-woven fabric. I glue the fabric from the inside out, except for the place where the head will be. I fold and pin facing each other, outline the pattern, stitch, cut and turn. The parts are not completely stitched together. There are still places for turning and a place where the ball for the head is inserted. The next picture shows that where there are gaps, we do not sew the fabric.

This is what ends up happening.

A very important point! We cut out the body parts using zigzag scissors. If you don’t have these, then cut them out using regular ones and be sure to make small notches in the folds, for example on the neck. We just take this cut edge and carefully, not reaching the seam a couple of millimeters, trim it.
After we have stitched all the details, we need to finalize the legs. We take the leg, fold it in the area of the foot, as in the photo (seam to seam) and draw a rounded line.

Sew along this line. Cut it out. This is what we should get.

We turn the parts inside out using a wooden stick.

Let's get to the head. We will need a foam ball 8 mm in diameter. We cut out a circle from padding polyester, such that it completely covers the ball when wrapped.

We wrap the ball and insert it into the head through the space that is not sewn up at the top.

My dolls with a nose. If you don’t want to make a nose for your doll, then you can skip the next step. For the spout we will need a safety pin with a bead at the end, a piece of padding polyester, thread and glue. So, let's take a pin. Apply glue to the tip of the plastic bead. Wrap it with a strip of padding polyester. Then we fold this roll on the bead in half. We tie a thread around the base of this ball. This is what it looks like:
The necessary strip of padding polyester.

A roll wrapped around a bobby pin.

We folded this roll in half and wrapped it with thread at the base.

We mark on the face with an invisible pencil where our nose will be.

Carefully move the fabric aside and, at the place where the needle enters the ball, insert our nose and remove the invisible one.

Sew up the head.

Now the most crucial and difficult moment is the neck. For the neck you will need a wooden stick. I use Chinese chopsticks. I cut them and sharpen the end. You can use wooden skewers, but they are more brittle. I had a situation where such a skewer broke when I inserted it into the ball. You will also need a strip of padding polyester and glue.
We cut out a strip of padding polyester in a width equal to the length of the stick to the point, and the length is such that when rolled into a roll it will cover the neck approximately.

Lubricate the stick with glue and, starting from the end, roll the padding polyester into a roll around the stick - like a carpet. This is what you should get.

Carefully insert this roller into the body through the lower unsewn hole and prick our ball onto the tip of the stick. I’ll say right away that for a beginner it can be difficult to immediately make a beautiful neck. With experience it gets better and better.

First we stuff the neck with a stick. We try to level everything so that there are no bumps.

Sew up the bottom.

Let's start with clothes. We cut out pantaloons. Take the fabric. Place them facing each other. We draw our pattern on the fabric. Hem the top and bottom. And then we sew the upper side seams. Like this:

We unfold and sew the bottom seams so that we get panties.

Turn it inside out and put it on the legs through the top. Like this.

Next, for work we will need strong threads, a long needle, buttons, a thimble and pliers.

We insert the torso between the legs. We fix it with safety pins, or better, if available, with long needles. And we sew it by button fastening the legs to the body. It's like this:

That is, you insert a needle into one leg and stitch it through the torso to the other leg. At the same time, you sew through the buttons on each side.

We put on our pants. We gather them at the back and sew them to the body. If they turn out to be too wide for the leg, then they can be gathered with a thread and sewn to the legs.

We sew a dress. It will consist of a separate top, skirt and sleeves. Sew the top part. To do this, we need to measure the circumference of the torso at the waist and the height of this upper part. In the following photos you can see that my girth is 21 cm and height is 7.5 cm. For the allowance we add 0.5 cm in width and 2 cm in height.

So, we need to cut out a rectangle 21.5x9.5 cm.
And hem it on a machine on both sides along the width. Like this.

Then we make darts on both sides. To do this, we apply our cut to the body, wrap it and mark the fold of the fabric for ourselves. You can first draw a line and sweep it by hand. We sew one side. We do not sew it all the way, since at the bottom we have the length that we need. And it doesn't need to be reduced.

Front view:

This is my petticoat. Skirt top. I made it with folds. The technology is the same. Sewn on by hand.

Down you can wear a tulle skirt for fullness. You can glue or sew braid or lace onto the belt to hide the seam. You can decorate the dress in some other way. Take action and be imaginative :)
I make the jacket from knitwear, but you can use cotton or denim. In this example, I used jersey and cotton for the lining. We cut the fabric facing each other. Let's draw a pattern. We don’t sew all the way through. We turn it inside out through the hole and sew it up by hand.

We attach our jacket to the doll and secure it with pins. We sew it in the center. Decorate with a button or something else. You don’t have to sew it, then it won’t be fastened on the doll.

Sew the bottom on a small rectangular piece of knitwear. We chop off the face and draw the sleeves. I place my pens on the fabric and mark where I want the sleeve to go.

We sew it, turn it inside out and put it on our hands.
We sew the arms in the same way as the legs, using button fastening.

The last stage is the hair. Hair can be made from artificial tresses or from natural sheep curls. You can also use yarn or wool for felting. Today I will tell you how to make hair from tresses.
What we need are tresses, transparent glue, or a needle and thread, safety pins, and a comb.
There are two options. The first is to glue the tresses with glue, the second is to sew with threads. For beginners, I recommend the second option. It is easier. I'll show you how to glue the tresses.
Draw a line around the head with a simple pencil. Squeeze out a small layer of glue along this line.

Apply the base of the tresses to this layer and secure with pins. The pins are only needed for a few seconds for the glue to set. When I glue the second row, I already pull out the pins from the first.

Next, squeeze out another layer of glue next to it in the same way and glue another row. There is no need to cut your hair. This is done in a spiral.
Do the same for the third row, etc. Until the tress runs out. It turns out like this.

You can sew tresses to your head in the same way using threads in a spiral. It will take a little longer, but your hands will be clean from glue :)
We draw the eyes with acrylic paint and blush the cheeks with regular blush.

Dolls are not at all like ordinary toys, especially when we are talking about handmade designer dolls. They don’t just look like they’re alive, because any master who creates these little masterpieces with his own hands puts a whole world into each doll: he invents and thinks through to the smallest detail its future image, endows the creation with a name, character, destiny and its own history. That is why all dolls are so original and unique.

If you want to become a part of the world of doll creators, try to learn from already recognized and venerable masters. Thanks to their tips, photo tutorials and master classes, you too can make a beautiful doll with your own hands. The main thing is to just want it and start inventing her image...

The doll is like a mirror of the soul of its author

Any creation begins with a plan, with a spark of an idea. Not all master classes can show this, but often masters draw sketches of the future doll so as not to miss or forget anything. Depending on what image is planned, the material is selected. However, sometimes a master can only work with one material, always trying to improve and achieve the ideal in his creations.

Designer dolls are created using a variety of techniques: they can be made of plastic, papier-mâché, sculpted from polymer clay or porcelain, sewn from fabric, have a soft body or a wire frame, etc. Today we will talk about frame dolls for making which use such material as paper glue.

Translated, its name means “paper clay.” This material is a pliable mass created on a cellulose basis (it is worth distinguishing between a polymer-based and a clay-based material). You can sculpt and model anything from it. Paper glue has many advantages over other plastics:

it is lightweight and is not susceptible to dust sticking during the modeling process, like baked plastic;
you can easily sand the product so that sandpaper will not leave scratches on it, and you can get rid of small flaws with a simple putty;
paperclay is like a canvas, which you can paint in any desired color, based on the range of the doll’s costume and her image; it is also worth noting that paperclay can be easily painted with acrylic paints (their advantage over oil is that they dry faster).

True, this material is quite fragile, but this small drawback can be overcome by following some secrets of master puppeteers.

For inspiration and search for possible images, look at the works of famous authors who have been creating dolls for a long time: Alisa Bazhenkova, Galina Shitova, Lyubov Lukyanchuk, Victoria Minenko, Yulia Nazarenko, Oksana Dyachenko and many others. Their dolls can be found in various famous art galleries, they are also often exhibited at thematic exhibitions and are purchased by avid collectors for private collections.

Of course, such designer dolls cost quite a lot, for example, the simplest copies can be bought from 10,000-12,000 rubles, and if you want to get a custom-made doll in the outfit of some historical era, completely made by hand using various techniques, with expensive fabrics or accessories, then its cost can start from $100 and above.

From theory to practice, from idea to creation

Don’t be discouraged and afraid that you will succeed like the masters, because they too once started small. Be prepared for some not-so-successful specimens at first, but believe me that after numerous practical sessions you will definitely be able to make the doll of your dreams with your own hands.

Frame paperclay dolls are presented in collections in the most unexpected images: gentle angels, mysterious fairies, nymphs, elves, fatal beauties and prim ladies, sophisticated dancers and graceful cocottes, harlequins, hat makers, sweet and naive children, etc. However, the manufacturing process , as a rule, will be the same.

After creating a sketch of the future doll and preparing all the necessary materials, you can get to work. Your initial task will be to make a frame and stand on which the doll can sit, stand, or take the pose that you have in mind.
You can make a frame with your own hands from wire. It is better to use thin steel or copper wire (copper is suitable with a cross-section of 2.5-3.5). The wire frame is a very important point for a wire-frame doll, because if you make it weak, the doll will fall over and will not be able to stand on its feet. It is also worthwhile to carefully approach the anatomical features and proportionality of the body parts of your creation, so that you can then sculpt them correctly.
So, according to the proportions, we turn the skeleton out of wire. Prepare yourself several pieces of different lengths so that you don’t have to stop while working. You can take two approximately identical wires and bend them in half - this way you will get two segments that will have four tails at the bottom and a bend at the top. Form a neck and bend the tails perpendicular to it to create shoulders. Then twist all the tails below - you will get a waist. Spread them at the bottom of the waist shoulder width apart and form a pelvis.
Next you will need new pieces of wire to make the legs and arms. Bend one piece and tape it in the pelvic area to the already created frame (you can use a heat gun, medical plaster, electrical tape or the same wire for attachment). To make the handles come out, take another piece, place it in the shoulder area and bend it on both sides. Attach these handles to the overall frame.
Additionally, you can twist other parts of the body from wire, such as a breast or butt for a doll. This is not necessary, but they will make it easier for you to wrap the frame later.
There will be five wires in the legs. Wrap them in a spiral with wire of a smaller cross-section so as not to twist each other. If the doll's arms or legs are longer than you wanted, you can cut off the excess.
Check body symmetry. Next, work begins on its formation. Some craftsmen use cotton threads impregnated with glue for this purpose, others prefer batting or padding polyester for volume; you can also take foil, toilet paper, and for the final winding - floral tape or a medical bandage with PVA primer. We extend the body and cover it with knitwear. At this stage, it is worth deciding on the pose of your doll, since once the “carcass” dries and hardens, it is unlikely that it will be possible to change it.
We move on to sculpting the head and hands, as well as modeling the face. For this we need such a wonderful material - paper glue, which is called self-hardening plastic. However, it doesn't look much like plastic. You can sculpt, building up any number of layers until you achieve ideal facial features. If you dilute it with water (to make a paste), you can smooth out unevenness or smooth out a sharp corner. When you're done with the sculpting so that the head, face, and hands look the way they should, you'll need to sand the surface again using zero sandpaper (you can also use a nail sander at the end).
Paint all exposed parts of the body with acrylic paint (very carefully, making sure there are no drips). Then paint the doll’s face, apply the desired makeup, make eyes (you can use store-bought ones, outline a bead, make them from Fimo, etc.), lips, cheeks. You can add glitter at the end and apply matte acrylic varnish as the last layer - this will protect the doll from dust and moisture.
You make eyelashes and hair at your own discretion - you can use thread wigs, dreadlocks, fur, special elements for dolls or real natural wigs.
Clothes can be sewn directly on the doll, then they cannot be removed. If you want to make her a wardrobe, then you need to create outfits separately. Don't forget about shoes, hats, jewelry and other accessories your doll needs.

I have long wanted to make a mk for my doll) I started several times, then I got involved in the process and forgot to take pictures

But now I’ll definitely do it!

So, girls, first we need a desire)))))) Without it, nothing can be done)

For work: a sewing machine, where would we be without it? If you don’t have one, then stock up on patience, a needle and thread)

Scissors, pins, marker or chalk, thread)

Have you forgotten anything? well then we started)

Cut it out)

The fabric for the body of the dolls is cotton, you can choose linen, calico, but the calico must be dense, otherwise the seams will unravel.

So... we chose the fabric, glue the fleece liner to the inside...

We transfer our pattern onto fabric, I use a disappearing marker in my work....

We fold the fabric in half!

Then we sew along the contour....

We stitch the rounded areas slowly, I turn the wheel by hand)

Leave small holes for turning.

Let's cut out our blank

In places with folds, we cut the fabric so that folds do not form.

Oh, I forgot about the legs) The size of the foot is adjustable to fit the shoes, as the sizes are different, I had to trim it a little.

We apply it so that the seams match, and secure it with a pin.

We turn it out very carefully! So that the seams do not creep.

Ironing

Then we stuff it with synthetic down, very tightly, so that there is no cellulite or creases.

If you can’t stuff it evenly, you can resort to using needles)

Stuff the carcass tightly, then secure the synthetic fluff with needles as in the photo.

We stuff the handles to the middle, then we make an assembly, tighten them with thread, it turns out to be folded. We stuff the handle to the end.

We stuff the legs very tightly! It depends on whether the doll will stand) or whether her legs will give way and wring))))))

We sew up the remaining holes with a hidden seam!

Ufff, well, the most tedious stage is over

Now you can assemble the doll! We don’t sew anything on yet) I attached the arms/legs with pins)

This will be in the 2nd part of MK.

There we will dress her, comb her hair and draw her face))))))))))))))

Let's draw a face for Sophie...

I want to say that I myself studied in various MKs, at first I didn’t get anything, I ruined a lot of carcasses, but I didn’t give up)

I think it's turning out pretty well now)

Let's begin.....

We will need acrylic paints for textiles, paper, pencil, scissors and brushes, and we also need a dry cloth to wipe off excess paint, cilia and glue.

The first thing I do is sketch the face, determine the size of the eyes and lips.

Secondly, I make eye stencils, without them I can’t get symmetrical eyes Drew it, cut it out, tried it on my head) Did it fit? Great!

So we attach them with a pin and trace them with a pencil!

We paint the eye with white acrylic paint, I do it in several layers, letting each layer dry..

We do all this with a semi-dry brush.
We draw a nose, lips, if you have difficulty, you can also do it using a stencil)

Using a dry brush we draw shadows over the upper eyelid, eyebrows, blush)

Now we glue the eyelashes.

For this we need instant glue, I have a transparent gel.

We measure the length, cut it, apply glue... and it turns out beautiful)))))))

By the way, to glue eyelashes, I help myself with tweezers, it’s more convenient)

This is such a cutie)

Well, we’ve reached the most interesting moment - we’re dressing up our doll)

I never get what I originally intended) the image is always supplemented and changed during the work) Sometimes I don’t even know what the result will be))))))))

But I didn’t back down here) The result makes me happy, I hope you like it too)

Well? Shall we begin?

We stopped at assembling the doll...

There are a lot of photos under the cut.

I found some great examples on the Internet on how to sew on arms/legs.

I think everything is clear here)

To sew the legs straight and the doll stands confidently, I do this:

1. I have my big needle, without it I’m like without hands)

I place the legs at the same level and string them evenly onto the needle)

2. I mark the puncture sites with a disappearing marker.

3. Then I connect everything with the carcass

I sew as shown in Fig. No. 3

So, our doll stands confidently. Now we begin to slowly dress her!

The first thing I sew from clothes is pontaloons. I love polka dots)

I decided to show this method, because there are often small pieces left that are a pity to throw away, but there seems to be nowhere to use them (So we have 4 pieces of fabric.

1. Transfer the pattern to the fabric, fold it with another piece)

2. sew along the center of the pants to the middle.... as in the photo.

when you turn it looks like this

We sew. Then we turn the bottom and top, sew them. We sew lace along the bottom. (top photos)

Next we sew between the legs....

Turn it inside out and iron it.
We put on pantaloons)

Take a rectangle of the width and length you need. Hem the top and bottom + I also sewed on lace.

Then we gather the top, tighten it, put it on the doll. Sew it on.

I used this principle to make all my skirts.

I decided to make a blouse using wide linen lace, it’s about 10 cm.

The lace was white - I don’t want that) We need to age it....

For this we need warm water, coffee and cinnamon...

We take coffee depending on what. what shade do we want...

I don’t need dark, I poured 2 teaspoons... cinnamon on the eye)

Soak the lace for a few seconds and remove.

We leave it to dry. The lace has acquired a yellowish tint, there are small stains and a pleasant aroma)

Here's another sign How can you dye fabric and what shade will it come out with)

We try it on the doll, find the desired option and sew it on.

Decorate with buttons.

Now the sleeves....I got a little carried away and didn’t take a photo of part of the work.

First, measure the sleeve size (length and width) according to your hand. Transfer the sleeve pattern to the fabric.

We sew it on. We put it on the hand. Decorate with lace if you like.

Using the same principle, I make the upper sleeve - a flashlight. But I make it much wider so that it can be gathered at the bottom.

But first we sew on the arms, as well as the legs (with thread fastening)

After the hands are in place, we disguise the button under our puffy sleeve.

So...now everything is in place....

Except for the head)

We sew it on with a hidden seam, very tightly)

After the head sits firmly in place, we proceed to the hairstyle.

Special hair for dolls. Curls)

I unravel them, divide them into small bunches and sew them in rows along the head.

It turns out very cool)

You can style your hair as you wish)

That seems to be all)

We decorate and add details to our doll!

The result makes me very happy)

I hope I was able to help you)

How to sew legs for a rag doll. Primitive textile doll: light, funny, pleasant. MK interior doll from A to Z

MK interior doll from A to Z

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