How to sew a corset with your own hands - from pattern to sewing. Master class: sewing a corset How to sew an evening dress with a corset

Well, the corset has been sewn, so far it’s a lightweight version, almost a belt, one might say))) But the principle is still the same. ... almost the same... because there are a great many corsets and of course the tailoring is different))) As it turned out, it’s quite difficult to cover the whole process, well, I tried))) The message will probably turn out to be huge))) My worst problem is that that it’s better to photograph during the day, of course, it turns out more natural, flashes spoil it, so in the process you’ll come to something that needs to be photographed, but it’s already evening)))

So the beginning is what we need to say so))) Fabric, lining fabric (I used cotton, it seems to me that in a sock when it fits tightly to the body it is still better), and woven dublerin is quite dense, but so as not to stand up))) I use adhesive because the product looks more aesthetically pleasing..

We also need: Busk (this is a metal front clasp), metal spiral bones (well, you can also use plastic ones, depending on who you like or who has what capabilities, I ran after them at one time and bought more at a wholesale store, so that’s enough for me) , a disappearing felt-tip pen (I really love using it))) you can smear it everywhere, anyway, after a couple of days there is nothing left, it’s convenient), keeper tape (the number of cm is approximately your waist), and I don’t know what these torture pliers are called))) those with metal blocks and all sorts of buttons with holes)))

I took a ready-made corsage pattern that I had in stock (I think every seamstress has a couple of magazines in mind with such patterns), I didn’t want to go through the trouble of constructing and calculating, it seemed faster to me)))

But of course, I need my own and beautiful one with the right grooves (the best in my opinion), so it doesn’t matter what the base is. I sewed such a model from cheap waste fabric and put it on a mannequin (well, on myself). A corset is a very individual matter, and you may want to correct the reliefs and change the location of the lower and upper sections. Having put the sewn corset on your figure, mark all the necessary changes directly on it with a felt-tip pen))) This is the first fitting, so to speak, and we can say that it is the most important, since a good fit of the corset depends on it)))

Next, we cut our layout along the marked lines and draw your individual pattern - the basis of the corset, which you can safely use in the future and change corsets like gloves))) and the most important thing is that parts 5 and 6 need to be reduced (this is still a corset for us) not a corsage) I removed somewhere a total of 4 cm on each side (I somehow didn’t remember exactly, I marked it on the mannequin and forgot - bungler))))

Let's start cutting, I make allowances of 1.5 cm, the lower and upper cuts are larger (in case you want to adjust them) You can see the numbers in the photo, so we cut out parts 1 and 5 four pieces each, the remaining parts two from the main fabric and two from the lining fabric, and we duplicate all the details with interlining (except for the lining, although it is possible to duplicate them, but I didn’t), but so that the duplicating material also fits into the allowances so that the seams are tighter..

How to sew the Busk, we chop together the front parts of the right side, apply half of the Busk and mark with a felt-tip pen where the fasteners of the Busk will come out and sew as shown in the photo, we do not sew the places where the round fasteners protrude (by the way, we always use a reinforced seam or simply sew the seam twice in seam, this is very important in a corset)

On the left side, we sew the parts completely, also with a tight stitch.

Then we sew together all the parts of the main and lining fabric, we get two halves of our corset, like this

We iron it out well and clearly mark on the waist line how our keeper tape will go, on the right and left halves

Sew the keeper tape on the lining side at a distance of one mm from the seam for an allowance, as in the photo

This is what we get

We insert our Busk into the very holes that we left on the right half and stitch it to the edge, preferably using a special foot.

On the left side it’s a little different, put the left side of the Busk inside, as shown in the photo, secure it with pins and an awl, carefully push the fabric apart, helping with your hands, so that the metal heads squeeze through and the fabric doesn’t tear, and also sew it to the edge

We pin each piece seam by seam and sew a line, like this

And now at a distance equal to the width of our metal bones (I have about 7mm) from each seam we lay lines, to be honest, your imagination almost does not limit you in this, where the bones will go beautifully, I made two bones at each seam

You can do it one at a time, or maybe not near the seam, it depends on who you like

And insert the bones

Mark holes for blocks on the back parts

By the way, it’s better to duplicate the back parts where the lacing will go with such a doubler so that the stake stands and the blocks should be located between two bones (this is mandatory, it’s more reliable), like in the photo the first bone is at the very edge, the second one will be visible below

First, of course, it’s better to try to make one block on exactly the same piece (double with doublerin) so as not to spoil it

You can grease the edges of the holes with textile glue, if you have it (I like it stronger), although it’s not necessary)))

We get these holes)))

We process the upper and lower cuts with bias tape, I took a ready-made one (I had it lying around in the bins)

Regarding the cord, I take this one, I don’t know what it’s called, it’s dense, smooth (which is very convenient) and if you cut it it won’t unravel... It may take from 3 to 6 meters depending on the corset (it took me 3 meters) but this is the minimum

We lace in this way, please pay attention, it is very convenient to tighten it yourself, without the help of strangers, in no time, you get this corset without any decorations yet... You need to pull these things in the middle of the lacing

And this is a knot on the inside

Please forgive me for looking like pajamas)))))))

I tightened it slightly, by 7 cm, quite wearable... Although I am not distinguished by large volumes)))) the silhouette is, let’s say, a little square, the waist has always been a problem, now, as you can see, it’s very much a WAIST))))

The fashion for corsets at first glance seems outdated, but still periodically flares up with renewed vigor. The reasons for this seem to be clear: at all times, women want to look elegant and fragile, and what, if not the hourglass silhouette, can so skillfully emphasize these advantages?

It is not at all necessary to be overweight to notice how a corset defines a beautiful waist, lifts the chest and highlights the curves of the body. It supports your back, straightens it, shapes your posture and gives you a feeling of greatness, makes you walk evenly and smoothly. Modern fabrics - silk and cotton or satin, satin, jacquard, muslin - cinched tightly at the waist, do not interfere with freedom of movement, and do not constrain the body. Fortunately, in our time in the context of corsets, beauty does not require sacrifice.

And yet, there is a secret: to make wearing a corset pleasant, you should sew it according to exact measurements. It is then that this intricate little thing will not only emphasize the waist, but also give a feeling of comfort when worn. The main thing is to find “your” model. So that the corset fits exactly to the figure and becomes part of it.

Let's observe the process of the appearance of a real corset. From measurements and fabric, to another thin waist.

1. Morning. We come to the studio of designer corsets Nadya Piskun. Nadya has been doing this business for thirteen years. She took up sewing corsets at a time when few people were doing this, essentially creating a demand for such an unusual item in the wardrobe of a Russian woman.

The studio immediately immerses you in the atmosphere of incredible outfits. Models of corsets are hung on hooks. They are all real, you can try them on, buy them, or sew your own, based on the model you like.

2. We will sew a corset for Lena. She is tall, 177 centimeters. Her figure is good, and she is the mother of two little boys. However, she wants to have a thin waist for a special occasion. And how my husband likes it! She is the kind of person who has outfits to match and will actually wear a corset.

First of all, we measure. When sewing a corset, many parameters play a role, including height. Rather, it determines the model of the future product. But the main thing is waist size. We write down all the parameters.

Then we select the corset model. It can be with a bust or end under the bust. It can be quite high or concentrated mainly at the waist, almost like a belt. Girls with round shapes need their own corset shape, which shapes not only the waist, but also the hips.

This ends the first meeting in the studio.

3. According to the chosen model and parameters, the corset is sewn. But not the same one, but a draft model of it - a mock-up.

A pattern is being made for it, which will also be used for the “combat” model. Every millimeter is important. This determines fit, comfort, and whether the corset will work properly.

4. The model is made of cotton, but with real bones, hooks and lacing. The corset is sewn from two layers: front and back. Fittings are inserted between the layers. It has hardly changed over the centuries.

Here, for example, are hooks on metal plates. They are built into the front of the corset.

5. One edge of the corset is marked on a metal plate and stitched, leaving holes for eyelets.

6. Then the seam is ironed and the loops are inserted.

7. This is the picture we get. The layers are secured with pins and stitched on the back side of the plate to secure it.

8. Hooks are sewn into the other edge. Holes are punched for them with a hole punch like this.

9. Insert the plate with the pimples with hooks and also secure with stitching.

10. This is what happened! The first two elements are ready. By the way, this is not the most difficult stage of production. Difficult things lie ahead.

Our corset consists of fourteen elements. Seven on each side, from the front hooks to the back lacing.

11. For the second time, Lena comes to try on the model. It allows you to adjust the top and bottom lines of the corset itself, and to understand whether the most important line - the waist line - has sat accurately. After all, you can measure as much as you like, but body sensations can only be tested in practice.

In fact, even the layout fits so comfortably that you want to walk away in it (:

12. Using a ruler and a piece of soap, mark what needs to be cut and corrected. For example, during the fitting it turned out that the curve of the corset at the bottom is not very comfortable in the groin in a sitting position. Feel free to draw out one and a half centimeters, but make the sides of the corset a centimeter longer.

13. We mark the correct waist line and our experimental sample goes back to work on the “combat” version.

14. Over the years of work, Nadya has selected the best fabrics and accessories. Corsets are mostly made of silk, but there are models made of cotton, jeans and leather. You can also add lace, corset mesh, elastic bands and anything else that is suitable for use in a corset.

15. For Lena we are making a black silk matte corset with stitching on the side fragments. Let's start cutting. As I already wrote, this corset consists of fourteen elements. The pattern is made only for half, pinned to two layers of silk (for the front layer) and cotton (for the back) and cut with a special machine.

The machine greatly speeds up the cutting process.

16. Previously, each piece of fabric is duplicated with an adhesive layer for durability and strength, so that the fabric does not “walk.” This is done under a heat press.

17. Strips of glued silk are also prepared in advance to decorate the top and bottom of our corset.

18. Before cutting, we decorate the fabric for the side fragments with stitching. We outline only one line, the seamstress does the rest by eye.

19. Here, look how smooth it turns out. Very experienced seamstress. She used to sew clothes and work with leather for cars. However, the speed and mastery of corset sewing took time to learn and gain experience.

20. We make final edits to the pattern. Remember, every millimeter is important to make the perfect corset.

21. Using the same principle as I showed above, we make a silk corset. There are some details here. Firstly, we hide the hooks under the fabric so that they are not visible. Secondly, in “combat” corsets, the waist line is strengthened with braid, which protects against stretching in the tightest part of the product.

The seeds will fit into the grooves prepared in advance.

22. Bones deserve special attention. This is one of the important details of the corset. A long time ago, bones were made from steel plates, and even from whalebone and turtle shell. They quickly deformed and broke. The modern bone is a flattened spring. It is both strong and flexible. It cannot be deformed or broken during wear. Therefore, the corset will last a long time.

23. Bones come ready-made, for standard sizes, or in a skein. For non-standard corsets, the length is measured.

23. And the tip is attached with a press.

24. All fourteen parts of the corset are sewn. It already looks (-:

25. All that remains is to trim the edges and stitch them with a pre-prepared silk ribbon. Fit one piece and make lacing.

26. A piece of fabric is sewn under the lacing - this is a valance. It is needed to ensure that the lacing does not touch the body or clothing. And if the corset is put on a naked body, then it will hide the “accordion”, into which the skin will most likely turn into, yyy (-:

27. Let's improve the edges! This is the most difficult part of the process! First, the strip is sewn to the front part of the corset, then it is wrapped around the inside and basted, as in the picture.

28. And then they sew exactly along the same front seam. Not a millimeter to the side! This results in a neat edge on both sides. The corset should be beautiful inside and out.

29. That's it, almost the final! We mark the places for the eyelets.

30. We insert them on a machine that makes a hole and secures the metal rings.

31. Eyelets were also selected empirically. They bear a heavy load of lacing. They should fit in the fabric no matter how tightly the corset is tightened.

32. But, most importantly, without fanaticism (-:

33. Start lacing. Helen is waiting!

34. Start lacing from the waist. This is where the “ears” of the lacing will be. Not from below or from above. And this lacing allows you to tighten the corset yourself, without anyone’s help.

The lacing takes about five meters of tape. The tape is very strong and durable. Nadya even has an unspoken campaign. The one who can break the lacing tape used by the studio with his hands will receive a corset as a gift (-:

35. The corset for Lena turned out to be laconic and discreet. So that she can wear it on weekdays. But there are simply a million decor options. Ribbons, guipure, lace, braids, buckles, embroidery...

36. Well, that's all. Waiting for the owner!

37. Let's run to the park to take pictures! Girls (-:

It’s nice that you can combine a corset with almost any style of clothing; it’s a great addition for different occasions, from everyday wear to going to a nightclub. For example, an underbust corset looks great with any contrasting shirt, blouse or top, and will also fit wonderfully over a loose dress, tight jeans or pencil skirt. If you wear a fluffy long skirt with your corset, you can actually feel like a medieval princess from a fairy tale!

38. Corset - like an ode to female beauty. Where's my Victorian mood? Oh, here, on the shelf of the closet in an elegant organza bag. Both in feast and in peace, during the day at work, you can wear a corset under a jacket with a formal skirt. In the evening, change your outfit to a romantic dress and show up for a date “breathing perfume and mists” and with a “glass-sized” waist.

39. Such is the secret of femininity and sophistication, and I believe that a corset is a “must have” for any woman who loves herself. And now you know

Chic evening and wedding dresses, from which it is very difficult to take your eyes off, are sold in many clothing stores, but the tailoring standards are not ideal for everyone. In our article we want to tell you how to sew a corset for a dress, taking into account the features of your figure, in order to emphasize all its advantages and look like a real princess in your dress. No matter how fashion trends change, dresses with corsets are still in trend. No other cut and tailoring can better emphasize the figure or hide some flaws in a person’s constitution. In addition, the corset can be decorated with rhinestones, expensive stones, and decorated with sparkles, feathers and bows, which will make the prom or wedding dress original and one-of-a-kind. Without some experience in sewing, making a corset for a dress with your own hands can be a real challenge. That is why, before you start sewing, you should thoroughly prepare and arm yourself with the necessary information.

Types of corset

In the process of modeling an outfit with a corset, it is necessary to take into account the further purpose of the dress, the type of fabric for sewing it and, most importantly, the figure of the owner of such a thing. Regardless of what your outfit will be - evening, wedding or everyday, the standard corset pattern will be equally suitable for any of them.

Important! For an everyday dress, it is very important not to overdo it with sparkles and decorations, and for a wedding dress, on the contrary, not to make it too simple and everyday.

The corset can be of two types. We will talk further about the purpose and features of each of them.

Decorative corset:

The most optimal option for girls with a “wasp waist”, which does not require additional adjustments.
Fashion designers and tailors consider a decorative corset an outfit option for everyday wear.
This outfit can be worn by both pregnant women and brides with an ideal figure.

Slimming:

The product is designed specifically for body shape correction, namely its visual change.
A properly sewn corset will lift the chest, hide excess on the sides, and additionally support the back.

Important! Brides purchasing clothes with a slimming model have a more slender and graceful silhouette.

What to make a corset from?

You can sew a corset for a wedding dress with your own hands from any dense fabric. In most cases, satin, lace or guipure are used as the main material, and cotton is used for the lining.

Important! If you do not use a sufficiently dense material when sewing, the product will end up wrinkled and wrinkled.

The following elements are used to decorate a dress with a corset:

Eyelets;
Lacing;
Locks;
Buttons;
Spiral boning for finishing curved seams;
Whalebone for making a slimming corsage;
Hooks;
Steel bones.

Important! On sale in the sewing accessories department you can find a variety of bones to give the corset its shape. It is not recommended to purchase cheap plastic bones for sewing. They are not durable, and in places of bend they twist and become deformed.

Lacing is usually designed on the front or back, some models include lacing at the front and back at the same time. For models with a tightening corset, this arrangement is very convenient, since it becomes possible to adjust the tightening force, thereby adjusting it to the desired size. You should not sew a corset that is too narrow or, on the contrary, a loose one, and especially not over-tighten it while wearing it.

Important! It is necessary to purchase bones for the rigidity of the corset only after constructing the pattern and determining its exact length. Trimming seeds at home is not recommended. Please note that the length of the bones should be 2 cm less than the main length of the corset, otherwise they may tear through the material.

For sewing you will need the following tools:

Ruler;
Scissors;
Fabric hole punch;
Strips of cellophane;
Hammer for fastening eyelets;
Rotary knife;
Sewing machine;
Disappearing marker for creating a pattern.

Create a template

Before sewing a dress with a corset with your own hands, you need to decide on the style of the dress, the purpose of the corset, its shape, as well as the length and other features.

Important! Before building a pattern on the main fabric, we recommend trying to sew a corset from cheap material, so to speak, making a trial version. This way, you can adjust it to your figure at any stage of sewing, and avoid mistakes when working on the main product.

The whole sewing process takes quite a lot of time. In the process of sewing a trial version, you will quickly understand the sequence, especially if you do not have some experience in this matter.

What measurements should I take to sew a corset?

Whatever shape or model your corset is, remember, it should fit and match your body type, highlight all your advantages and hide possible flaws. To correctly construct a pattern and organize the sewing process, you should correctly take the following measurements:

Chest circumference.
Waist circumference.
Hip girth.
Additionally, write down the distances from the waist line to the point under the chest, from the waist line to the bottom along the side seam, from the waist line to the bottom of the abdomen.

Pattern construction options

In the sewing industry, there are two options for constructing a clothing drawing:

Settlement. An old and proven method for creating a pattern, which involves taking certain measurements for each selected model.
Dummy. Construction takes 10-20 minutes - in such a short period of time, all measurements are taken more accurately in compliance with all the features of the human constitution. To construct a drawing using the dummy method, fabric is placed on a person or mannequin.

Dummy method of constructing a corset pattern

Modern seamstresses and tailors use design using drawings less and less. Nowadays, the tattoo or fake method is more popular. As we said above, it takes less time, and the accuracy of measurements is much higher.

To make a pattern, you should prepare:

dummy;
special disappearing felt-tip pen;
pieces of polyethylene measuring 20 by 45 cm.

Important! The number of cellophane strips corresponds to the number of parts of the future corset.

Sequence of pattern construction:

On the mannequin, mark a line under the chest, chest and waist lines, as well as an additional abdominal line. To do this, tie the laces or elastic bands horizontally on the mannequin.
Draw lines along the tied laces with a special marker, then remove the threads from the mannequin.
The next step is to mark the side seams and the center of the front and back parts, and also draw all the reliefs of the future corset.

Important! Since the parts are cut out by folding the fabric in half, measurements should be taken from one half of the mannequin.

Take one piece of cellophane and attach it to the front of the mannequin, using a ballpoint pen to draw lines from the fold to the relief.
Then transfer the side parts and back parts. When all the lines are transferred to the cellophane strips, check their correctness and evenness of application, add seam allowances.

As a result, you should have the pattern details, only on cellophane.

Calculation method for creating a pattern

Before sewing a corset for a wedding dress, any sewing workshop must take the customer’s measurements and design a pattern. Sometimes professional seamstresses use the new method that we mentioned above, but many rely on drawing on paper the old fashioned way.

Sequence of drawing construction:

Take the simplest pattern for a dress as a basis or draw a rectangular grid and apply the measurements of the waist, chest and hips taken in advance on it.
Then apply all the reliefs on the main pattern and make a pattern.

Important! Before you apply the lines to the fabric, be sure to add a 2-3 cm seam allowance.

After the pattern is prepared, it's time to transfer all the lines onto the fabric. Place the pattern so that the central cut of the back is parallel to the grain thread of the fabric, and the matching points of the parts on the waist line are parallel to the weft thread.

Important! This arrangement of the pattern will not allow the finished product to stretch during wear.

The right and left sides of the corset are identical, so when cutting the fabric, fold it in half. If your lining is made of the same fabric, then fold it in four, making sure to align the edge.

Now you can start cutting the fabric.

Important! To make the fabric shrink, soak it in warm water before sewing. To understand where each part is, number them.

How to sew a corset for a dress?

Sew the main fabric pieces along the side seams. Do the same with the lining.
Cut the resulting seam allowances at equal distances from each other with scissors, not reaching the line 2-3 mm, and smooth them in different directions with an iron.

Important! This procedure is necessary to prevent wrinkles from forming on the bends.

Now it's time to sew the lining and main fabric. To do this, fold the parts with the right side inward, sew one side seam and iron the allowances on one side, the second side seam, on the contrary, should be ironed.
Turn the product right side out and smooth the seams through a thin cloth or gauze.
Then, from each seam on the main and lining fabric, make two vertical stitches for the boning.
Sew the drawstrings on the side seams and tuck the bones into them.

Important! Make sure that the seams on both parts are approximately at the same level. For a more accurate match of the seams, you need to start finishing seams for the bones from the center of the side seam, and then to the side of it.

Connect the main and lining fabrics at the same level as much as possible; for additional fixation, you can baste them with thread.
Carefully, slowly, lay the finishing stitch as close as possible to the main stitch, the next one at some distance from it.
Do the same on the other side of the seam - you get grooves for the bones.

Important! To position the bone correctly, the width of the groove should be 1.5-2 times the width of the bone.

Once all the pitting channels are ready, use scissors to trim the bottom and top edges of the piece.

Processing the upper edge of the corset

First of all, at this stage you must decide how you want to finish the edges of the item. There are several finishing methods: the edge can be treated with a special braid or edging, which are sold in the store, or you can make a regular smooth edge.

In the case of the latter option, at the stage of sewing the main fabric with the lining, the parts are sewn at the top and bottom, while leaving an unstitched area to turn the product inside out. After this, make another line along the front side as close to the edge as possible and sew up the open space below. In our article we will tell you how to process the edge of a corset with lining fabric.

Finishing sequence:

Lay the lining fabric on a flat surface, straighten the corset on top and outline the top with chalk, soap or a marker.
At a short distance along the product, measure 4 cm down from the cut of the lining, connect the dots in a line and cut out the part.

Important! You should end up with a 4 cm wide piece that completely follows the lines of the top of your corset.

In the same way, cut out the edging for the bottom of the product.
If the model includes straps, prepare them before processing the top edge.

Important! For proper processing, the width of the blank for the straps should be 4 times larger than the desired width of the finished straps.

Cut the required width and length of the straps from the main fabric, fold the edges inside out so that they touch, iron, then fold in half and sew a vertical line on both sides.
Place the straps vertically on the front side of the corset, align the cuts, place the edging on top, wrong side up, and sew close to the edge.

Important! To prevent the straps from moving during the sewing process, secure them with pins.

Turn back the edging fabric, point the seam allowance upward and place another line along the edging at a distance of 0.1 mm.
Turn the edging to the wrong side of the product and iron it.

Processing the bottom edge of the corset:

Before stitching the bottom of the product, insert the bones into the prepared channels. There are 4 layers of fabric in each hole for the boning (base, lining and seam allowances). Bones can be installed in the middle or between the lower layers of fabrics.

Important! If the main fabric is thin, insert the bones between the lining fabric.

To finish the bottom edge, prepare the edging in the same way as for the top edge.
Place the border with the right side facing in and stitch around the edge.

Important! When using a sewing machine, be careful when working around the bones so as not to break the needle.

Repeat the same steps as for finishing the top edge.
From the wrong side, sew the piping to the lining using hidden stitches so that it does not turn away.

How to design a clasp?

If the corset fastener will consist of lacing, make markings for the eyelets on the halves of the product. A special sewing tool, a punch, will help you make high-quality holes in the fabric.
Mark the locations for eyelets along the entire length of the product.

Important! The standard distance between loops is 2.5 cm.

Punch holes and install grommets.
Measure the required length of the straps, cut off the excess, place the ends on the wrong side of the top of the product, at a short distance from the eyelets, and stitch.

We hope our tips and step-by-step process on how to sew a corset from jeans , silk and other fabrics, will help you create an outfit that your family and friends will appreciate. This dress will highlight the dignity of your figure, making it more elegant and graceful. Another incomparable advantage of a dress with a corset, made to order or made by hand, is its uniqueness. Therefore, you should not waste energy and effort on such a product, but using the example of world cultural stars, wear original items of your own design.

Master class from a non-professional amateur

We sew this corset:

To sew a corset with your own hands we will need:

Lining fabric (I used thick cotton fabric)
Top fabric (I used stretch cotton satin)
Regilin
Dolevik or grosgrain ribbon
eyelets for lacing holes

I sewed a regular modeling corset, not tight, because... I don’t really have anything to pull off. For a slimming corset, you need to use more durable regilin, whalebone or special metal bones.

We cut out the details of the corset using ready-made patterns. I decided to change the model a little and make the top straight (see picture). Don't forget to transfer the marks onto the fabric. It is very important to correctly position the parts relative to the grain thread, otherwise you will get an unsightly distortion of the fabric on the finished product.

Baste all the details from the lining fabric. The marks along the waist line should match.

Now you definitely need to do the first fitting. Help someone pin the lining together at the back. Since the corset must fit snugly to the body, it is very important now to adjust the details to the figure. My measurements are a little short of size 44, so in some places I removed excess fabric in the seams. If you are sewing a slimming corset, you can remove even more. Just don't overdo it!
Sew the lining details. In especially kinky places, make notches close to the seams.
Repeat steps 3-4 to sew from the top fabric. Sew the seams at a distance of 0.5 cm. Press.
Take the regilin and cut strips 1-1.5 cm shorter than the length of the seam being reinforced. Melt the ends of the regilin strips on both sides with a match. This must be done, otherwise, during wearing, thin needles made of regilin tape (resembling a thick fishing line) will come out and not only ruin the fabric, but will also painfully prick the skin.

Stitch the regillin with a zigzag stitch along the line of each seam on the lining. If you want a little more rigidity, make 2 strips of regilin for each seam, placing them to the left and right of the seam. Regilin should not come close to the top and bottom lines, let it remain approximately 0.5 cm.

Sew 2 more strips of regilin along the cut under the fastener. If you use eyelets or loops, these strips will add the necessary rigidity and prevent the fabric from distorting at the lacing tension points.

Take the piece and stitch it exactly along the waistline onto the lining fabric. I used grosgrain ribbon instead of a dolevik. In principle, it does not matter whether it is located on the front or back side. I sewed it to the front one. Why is it needed? So that the tightened corset you put on (it will be stretched at least a little in any case) is not crossed by ugly transverse folds.

Place the top and lining pieces right sides together and baste along the top line of the corset. Turn it inside out and try it on.

During the fitting, I realized that the oval bottom line did not suit me, and I decided to make it straight like the top edge of the corset. So I basted the bottom along the new marked hem line. In this case, the regilin had to be torn off a little, trimmed and scorched again. I turned it inside out and tried it on. After fitting, I sewed stitched seams along the top and bottom lines. I cut off the allowances at a distance of 0.5 cm.

All that remains is to process the clasp. If you are sewing a non-constrictive corset, you can use a strong zipper. If tightening is expected or you want to use lacing, then install eyelets or loops. I decided to use eyelets. To do this, I simply ironed the seam allowances along the edge of the corset inwards and stitched close to the edge.

If you remember, I sewed 2 strips of regilin at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other along the edge of the corset. Now you need to stitch along the second line to secure the lining relative to the top. Install the eyelets along the edge, placing them between the strips of regilin.

This is what I ended up with.

Back view. My measurements are slightly smaller than the standard size 44, so on the mannequin there is a distance between the edges of the corset. The corset fits me without this gap.

You can stitch the corset along the top and bottom lines, or you can leave it like that, just iron it well.

Dear friends!
In this master class, I won’t bother you with the main reason why, cut the fabric into small pieces and then put them together again.)) I want to concentrate on the technical side of this dress - the corset base.
There are different options, this is one of them - a corset base with an independent fastener - a detachable zipper. Construction is done according to measurements, without tightening. The purpose of the corset in this case is to hold the dress in place, and not to contain excess volume.
This method allows you to reduce the load on the external zipper, reduces the number of layers sewn to one zipper, and makes it easier to approach all areas of the dress during use, if, for example, there is a need to iron it.

To make the corsetry, I call it the technical part of the dress, you will need: - interlining fabric (formflex firm hold, veri-shape durable press, or similar) - regilin 1 cm wide (hereinafter referred to by me as “bones”)
- organza (leftovers from previous projects will do) - lining - detachable zipper

For the edges in such products I use polyester organza - it is very thin and will not add extra thickness. Lobar or transverse does not matter - it does not stretch equally in either direction (mine, in any case, check if yours is the same)
P.S. Organza tends to shrink from high temperatures, so run an iron over it before sewing. By the way, this applies to all parts of the corset, including the “bones”.

Why this method of arranging the bones, and not the more common one, where the bones are stitched into reliefs?
- There are fewer thickenings in the reliefs, the thickness is more evenly distributed throughout the entire volume of the corset. There is less chance of “bones” running through, because the model lines of the dress can be anything (as in this dress) and do not necessarily coincide with the typical reliefs of the corset.
Another plus is the opportunity during the fitting, when the corset is already half assembled, to make adjustments to the seams if necessary, without much effort.

Pin the lining parts of one set together with the gasket parts.

... and in the center of the darts.
Stitch seams and darts (except for the center back)